My perimeters tend to not be cut well. I changed my job to not keep a gap and also to cut perimeters and no go zones first but I still seem to have a 4-6” strip around the perimeter. Any tips? When you map perimeters do you intentionally go wider or stay along the right edge of the mower?
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Weird we can up-vote or down-vote on this thread. Or is just me?
extending working area allows the rover to use that extra area to turn (but not considered for mowing). Reduced boundary will reduce by x offset (0 to 40) the mowing area. So you could reduce by 40 (let’s say you are worried it hits the edge of some planting area) while allowing the rover to “use” 20 cm of such area to turn…
I intend to leave a approx 8in from walls, so I can manually trim. Property boarder , I’m on the mark. Not sure how everyone else does it.
There is a Reduce Boundary setting for the Area, see if that’s 4 (the default), and you can try it at 0. (The Extend Working Zone setting seems to loosen the corners of the Area for turning, but that’s based on what others have observed – I’ve never used that setting.)
In addition, Yarbo adds some buffer to what you have mapped – they shouldn’t, but I know it was done for No-go Zones a while back.
@Yarbo-Forum - Can you provide clarification about what buffers Yarbo automatically adds to what we have mapped? I am unclear and a bit confused on that.
Currently Yarbo adds a 4 inch safety buffer on the perimeter and 30cm around NGZ’s. The reduce boundary even at zero currently keeps it at 4. I believe setting to 4 becomes 8 and so on. It will also swing wide in turns and miss more than the 4. All of this is a temporary thing while they work on more reliable GPS, dead reckoning, and other sensor fusion and vision technology.
My experience Looks to be almost exactly 4 inches by my measurement. Still makes no sense to me to do that. If Yarbo can’t stay within the boundary it drew then there is a problem.
GPS is often blamed for the lack of being able to stay within the boundaries and NGZs. In some respects it probably is true. In many respects is that it doesn’t truly account for the size of the modules in its path planning in all scenarios. This is why it’s highly recommended to map using the module you intend to use and to keep the left antenna pointed into the area when mapping. I did the opposite of this and even though I never hit my fence when mapping, Yarbo routinely hit the fence when turning because it ran backwards of the way I mapped it. When they applied the safety buffers, it never hit the fence again.
We should be able to decide if we want this turned on or not with zero actually being 0". My property is not that constrained and all this is going to do is leave areas not getting cut. That NGZ buffer again, 30cm is too much. Let me decide if I want a buffer and if I do how much.
Here are my area settings:
Overlap - 8”
Route order - Boundary First
Mow along no go zone - on
Edge priority setting - no go zone first
Perimeter mowing laps - 3
Reduce boundary - 0”
Extend working zone - 0 ft
What are additional Perimeter Laps intended to do? I set it to 4 as a test. It works as expected, other that adding a bunch a time due to the same crawling speed for all 4 laps - that’s another conversation.
When it then cuts the area it doesn’t seem to care how many laps were used, it still tracks to the same offset from the the boundary for the turnaround. Is that how it’s intended to work?
I’m confused as to how Reduce Boundary and Extend Working Area interact with each other? It seems to me they are redundant settings. For example, I’d expect that reducing boundary by x is equivalent to extending working area by x, or something like that. I propose that combining these into a single configuration setting would be more intuitive for the user. Similar to setting a margin or padding in user interface software design.
Oh ok so extend work area is to give Yarbo more space to turn around.
I’m having same perimeter too wide issues and looking for a solution to tighten perimeters. I have “smooth sailing” no obstacles and need Yarbo to cut right up against my edge. It’s routinely 6-8” short of edge no matter what I do. Too much to weed wack afterwards!