2a - If you’re overlapping a driveway so that the turns will take place on it, don’t forget to add a no-go on that driveway that you will turn ON if a car is present. And one for the trash bins at the end of the week.
7a - if you have a slope you can mow when dry, but not wet - you guessed it, make it a no-go that you can toggle.
24 - Use a dead-end to poke the M1 under shrubs and bushes without putting the antennas in there. Start a decent distance away.
25 - if you’re lazy like me, one pathway can connect multiple areas. Yarbo will happily hop on or off when it needs to.
26 - Don’t try to be accurate when mowing or dead-ending alongside a building, wall, or fence. Stay away by at least half a yarbo width on nice ground, and stay away at least a full yarbo width on a slope. Yarbo has a loooong body. The closer it gets alongside a wall, the less it can turn. And in reverse, it’ll climb and can wreck your antennas.
23a - Pathways are great for the S1. They’re mostly useless for overlaps with the M1, and blower, and marginally useful for the SAM. I’d strongly urge this solution instead. I apologize if it’s hard to follow, but it solves most problems for both users AND for Yarbo’s coding team. Write this, once, and the issue is done. It resolves all of the workarounds wanted by me, Ken, I hope even you, and pretty much anyone else who deals with overlaps. It can reuse almost all of the existing code that the solver uses for pathing. Too much effort is wasted trying to kludge pathways, which are rarely appropriate for overlaps.