Track slipped off and “derailed”

I was checking on progress and it said right track was stuck. I went out to check on it (this is my first mow through) and this is what I saw:

Anyone seen this before? Since the tracks can be swapped I’m assuming I can fix this and there are track change instructions (although getting to a decent place to work on it might be interesting). Is this common? Any suggestions on how to avoid?

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Got tracks back on but RTK antenna broke in the process. :-/

You mount the tracks exactly like a chain on a chainsaw, and you tension them the same way.
Or tension the chain on a dirt bike, same idea.
Like anything, you’ll want some slack but not much. You do NOT crank it tight.

I’ve had this “derailing” happen four times now.
I noticed that both my original core and my current (replacement) core arrived with the tensioners set in the fully tightened position. Noticing this, I set them the same way when swapping from snow treads to grass treads.
Do you think they should be loosened some?

I wouldn’t. It’s meant to be fully extended. When the screw stops you are good.

Interesting.
Mine weren’t, and aren’t. Not the core that had a powerboard issue, and not the one they replaced it with.
Both tensioners (the one that needs the ratchet tool to adjust) were about 3/4s down the slot, with a quarter of the slot yet to go. The grass treads seemed to be at a good tension at about that same location, as well.
Mine were off the batch from July’s orders, however. The snow and grass treads are both somewhat difficult to mount/remove with the tensioners fully collapsed.

snow blower tracks, but same concept (since they don’t have a summer track install guide or video). You don’t crank it, but you tighten. https://support.yarbo.com/portal/en/kb/articles/2024-how-to-change-yarbo-tracks

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Mine are the same way as randman77’s. It’s still got a small amount of play/slack then driving but the nubs are secure. From the factory it was installed with the tensioning screw as far it it’s capable of going. When I loosened to put the track back on I installed it in the same place. I’ve never swapped the type of tracks - it’s always had the grass tracks (only had it about 4 days) and came that way from the factory.

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@Yarbo-Forum You might want to ensure that the person assembling those tracks at the factory has stopped doing that. They probably used a power tool and just ran it 'til it hit the limit.

@steve mine appear to be ~3/4 down the slot like yours, but the big screw that requires a ratchet seems to bottom out at that point, making it the tightest position.

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Yes, I just noticed that, too, when I greased my tracks a few days ago. It seems it hits the bottom, and that’s that, but from the factory they drive it in there with about 500 tons of force or something!

May need longer adjusting bolts as the tracks age and stretch (if it’s the bolt shoulder bottoming out – if it’s the wheel side, ummm…yeah, you’re done).

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mine appear to be ~3/4 down the slot like yours, but the big screw that requires a ratchet seems to bottom out at that point, making it the tightest position.

Yes. Exactly the same on mine.

Yes, this is normal and expected.

We are sorry to hear about the issue, but we’re glad you were able to get the track back on.
Regarding the broken antenna, our support team will assist you with a replacement to help get your unit back up and running as soon as possible.

To help prevent the track from slipping off in the future, we recommend applying track grease regularly. You can refer to this video for guidance: https://youtu.be/YwRRucEdSXA?si=BX6p5zu6UoHQoQ6M.
It is recommended to apply grease every two weeks, or even more frequently if your Yarbo operates on a tight or frequent schedule.

If you encounter any other issues, we are always here to support you. Please feel free to reach out to us or connect with the community anytime.

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@Yarbo-Forum It seems you may have skipped over the most important part of the discussion. Can you please comment on the tension required for the tracks?

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Thank you for your question. After confirming with our mechanical team, the tensioners should be fully extended.
You just need to set them in the fully tightened position.
Please let us know if you have any further questions!

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