I seen during the launch of the pro mower there was a new style of disk they were showing us. Does anyone know when the new upgraded version of the disk will be available?
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I donât know if theyâve announced a date for that yet. Maybe @Yarbo-Forum knows.
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Are you referring to the new upgraded cutting discs designed for the Mower Pro? Please note that these discs require stronger cutting motors, so they are not recommended for use with the current M1 model.
As for the M1, we do have plans to develop an upgraded cutting disc specifically for it, but itâs still in the development phase. This might take some time, so unfortunately, weâre unable to provide a specific timeline at the moment.
We really appreciate your interest in itďź
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the disk it comes with are junk. crappy plastic material never works for this application. guess nor R&D was done on a real lawn only perfect lawn
Specifically, can you please let us know what the new cutting disc design will entail? This would help me understand the planned design upgrades for the M1. I understand that the disc is in development, so some items may change, but an overall idea would be nice. For example:
- The new disc is intended to have metal sleeves for the blade mount screws to run into, thus reducing the frequency of stripping.
Is this type of information available? I apologize if I missed it, but if someone could direct me to it, Iâd be thankful.
Thanks!
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Hi Yarbo user,
Thanks for reaching out with your question â weâre glad to see your interest in the upcoming upgrades!
The new cutting disc youâre referring to is specifically designed for the Mower Pro model and is not planned for the standard M1 at this time. The Pro was developed for more demanding mowing conditions and offers three different types of blades, each suited for different terrain and grass types. These upgrades are part of the Proâs overall enhanced cutting system
I have an M1, and the disk design is such that the razor blades freeze in place after an hour of mowing my lawn (and right now, it takes 40 hours of mowing for one pass on my 1 acre). What is the point of having blades that fold back for safety if they are stuck out in place? It might as well have a rigid blade, though a metal blade like the Pro might not be good for the M1, since it is two blades vs five blades. The key question is, do you have a design in the works that has a priority of keeping the blades freely rotating? Can you share the design approach to make this work?
Q: The blades usually get stuck facing out, so theyâll still cut. If they did hit something, wouldnât they be more likely to spin/flail, even a little, despite some grass being jammed in there? Thatâs what Iâm thinking.
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Yes, they are stuck facing out. However, when I have tried to move them around in a circle to clear the grass clogs, they are very difficult to move at all. If I did not have cut-proof gloves on, it would not be possible without cutting myself badly. I found it quicker to remove the disks, then remove the blades, then scrape out the grass with a flat-bladed screwdriver. Obviously, I do not want to do that once an hour. I just pretend that they are meant to be rigid blades until it is time to replace the blades. When one side of the blades are worn down, I swap the disks with each other to get the other side of the blades exposed for mowing. I have a second set of disks all cleaned up with new blades when the time comes for new blades. They actually last longer than I expected.
This is normal for them to stick out and get grass stuck underneath. All manufacturers who use these razor blades design have this âissueâ. But, itâs not an issue if they are stuck out, only stuck inwards. Trust me, if it hits something hard, it will give and spin.
I did see a video recently of terramows design and they have a smooth raise tube that the blade hole fits over and the screw head holds the blade on. The YouTuber said this seemed to eliminate the issue. One of the PPP was using washers and different screws and said it had a big difference. Maybe give it a try and see if that helps.
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I tried putting #6 flat washers under the blade yesterday to see if that would make a difference. It still lets the std screws go in far enough to engage the tread lock compound. However, it made no difference. Not high enough to change things.
I think the Yarbo design error was putting the support ribs on the blade side of the disk. They make it easier for the grass to pack in under the blade. It might have worked better if the ribs were on the top side and the bottom side had a little more of a raised pad. Then, if the blades had a rounded or 45-degree cuts (like I have seen on other blades) at the back to make as small an area for grass to pack in between the blade and disk.
The design in your picture does not let the blade wobble much. Perhaps the ability of the Yarbo blade to move around so much also makes it easier for the grass to wedge in. I noticed that some of the impacted blades were cocked at an angle do the the grass wedging in.
I also remember somebody mentioning another disk design where the blades were sandwiched between two disks. They thought it fixed the clogging issue.
My understanding is that the sandwiched disc with the friction plate protecting the blades also led to a poorer cut.
Poorer than what? On a relative basis, my Yarbo M1 blade has a poorer cut than my 21" Greenworks battery walk-behind mower. And both of those are worse than my 60" Land Pride rear discharge finish mower. It might beg the question if having a rigid blade gives a better cut than a blade that can freely rotate like a flail?
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I have no basis for comparison for the friction plate setup so I have no idea. Just what former husqvarna dealer told me. Said people who removed those were much happier with the cut. My M1 does fine but you have to cut very frequently for it to do so. A mower that generates lift is going to be superior in cut quality. Are you saying a flail mower is better or comparing that to the discs design?
Not a flail mower (which I have also owned before the Land Pride), but the flail action of the cutter that swings out of the way when it hits something tough. These razor blade cutters are more like string trimmers that rely on centrifugal force to keep them lined up properly (and the mass of the blade).
Cutting quality also has to do with how sharp the blades are. The razor blades will stay relatively sharper as they wear, because the whole blade is thin. A solid blade will be thicker and will get duller more quickly as it wears the edge back to a thicker area of the blade. There are so many tradeoffs in a mower blade design!
I just want to have the design that was delivered work as intended on my grass. And that means the blades swing free on the disk until they are ready to be replaced, not just for less than an hour of mowing.
Perhaps it will get better with more frequent mowing. It currently takes me 80 hours to mow one acre at medium speed. My yard is all slopes. It takes a week to mow once between the morning due and afternoon thunderstorms on many days. The grass can grow 2-3 inches in a week this time of the year. I need the enhancements for slopes to speed things up. Ideally, if they implement my suggestions, it should speed things up by 3x for my yard.
Yeah it shouldnât take that long to mow 1 acre but if it is all slopes I can see it taking longer. The current algorithm for slopes is a temp solution and will be one you can turn off soon. Iâve found that slowest speed cuts the best. Also removing a little material at a time. Mowing 2-3 times a week at 90 degree angles each cut really helps keep it maintained and get the missed stuff. I do slowest speed, 4 inch overlap, and checkerboard. Works pretty well for me. Thatâs mowing about an acre with some slopes but not a lot. Less than 24 hours to complete.
If your acre takes <24 hr with 4" overlap, that is about right. I mow at 8" overlap, with a parallel pattern up and down the slope. The current slope algorithm doubles the time (<48 hr), then add 20% for the offset (58 hr), then mow a second time with a 12" offset to clean up all the unmowed strips (116 hr). But I am moving faster to try to speed things up, so that knocks it back to about 80 hr. So, it is easy to see how poor navigation can add up to unreasonable mowing times on slopes.
If Yarbo implements my suggested pattern, it will mow uphill with zero offset. It will mow back downhill with a 10" offset (the offset done as a little angle move at the endpoints). There will be no turning around for the parallel pattern. This will result in two passes at fast mowing speeds from opposite directions for slopes, and no gouging the lawn. I expect it will give a fast and superior cut compared to the current times. That is where my 3x faster estimate comes from. This is only a small modification from the multiple parallel dead-end proposal.
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My M1 works fine for me . I mow at the slowest speed with an 8 inch overlap. It takes all of daylight and into the night to mow one acre work area. The next morning I immediately set it to mow the same area a second time at 90 degrees. Sure it take two full days to mow one acre but it is a robot. I mow with my John Deere around the perimeter and the no-go zones. It takes 8 minutes. The lawn looks so good my wife is taking credit for purchasing Yarbo. with three one-acre work areas I run Yarbo 5-6 days a week. My neighbors are very envious as it is hot down here in Florida and the mosquitos can be a problem.
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8 mins on a riding mower is a huge win in my book. It will only get better too. Hopefully you can get those 8 mins eliminated one day.
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Someone also designed a 3D printable cover for the disc, that covers the screws so only the blades stick out. But I never heard if he was able to confirm they made a huge difference or not.