Oowwwwww! Bearings! Go check em!

Hey guys and gals, ive just gone through my first major PM run (Preventative Maintenance) and discovered on both of my Core units that the bearings in the idler wheels are on their way out. A couple of them were ceased with little to no movement. All this from bearings that are supposed to be sealed. I dont thing that being dry bearings helps either.

I did pop the covers off of them and pack them as best o could with silicone grease until I get replacements.

I go have a chat with the guys at the bearing store to see if there is a better option.

Along with that my drive wheels have excess play in them too.

I’ve submitted tickets for both issues for both cores.

I just changed tracks the other day and mine are tight. Drive sprockets are very loose but that is yarbo normal, lol. I had to change mower wheels last season as m1 mower wheels were wore out.

Slop on drive wheels is normal, but they need to have the same amount of lash (spin slop, not wobble slop).

On mine, the right (Halo) drive wheel had over a quarter turn of lash. The left side had less than an eighth.

That means when IMU is being used and the core is counting motor revolutions - the left track will physically engage before the right track, and the core will zero-turn yaw until that right track engages. And because it’s using the IMU, it has no idea that the yaw (change in heading) took place. It only knows the motors made the same number of rotations.

On a perimeter (under IMU), that means every fwd-reverse-fwd shifts the core outside the boundary, and it doesn’t know it. And obviously, the opposite takes place if the left drive wheel has more lash than the right.

I didn’t get the chance to look before shipping that core back, but I’m pretty sure it’s a case of those drive wheels initially having a cutout for a dogbone

(dogbone axle)

that starts like this,

and over a season, one gets hogged out like this.

At any rate, check for more than just wobble. Lash will also matter when there’s no RTK. The same amount of lash will probably be fine. But if they’re different, you might have IMU issues.

Sorry to hear about the issue. I’ve located your support ticket in our system, and our support team will assist you in resolving this as soon as possible.

We appreciate your patience in the meantime.

Do you have any pics of the actual wear you’re seeing?

I have a vid of the difference in lash.


versus


The wheel clearly isn’t fixed to the driveshaft by splines, so a hogged out dogbone receiver is the closest approx I’ve got.

:frowning_face_with_open_mouth:

Now I kinda feel like an absolute Karen! The back lash in my unit is microns compared to that!

That is the material that the dog bone seats in on the drive wheel?