I have a country yard with loads and loads of trees. No way I can keep up with twigs and stuff getting stuck in the little blade shafts. Hoping we have an option for them in future. I will gladly sacrifice mow/battery time for tougher blades.
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See: Cutting disk design.
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Thank you for your feedback! We’ve recognized this issue and discussed it during yesterday’s CEO AMA event. We’re already working on improvements:
- Reinforced Cutting Deck: A more robust version is in development to better handle tougher terrain.
- Heavy-Duty Steel Blade Option: We are also considering offering a heavy-duty steel blade in the new version to accommodate a wider range of usage scenarios.
We truly value your input and look forward to bringing these enhancements to you in the future!
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Excellent!
Yes, I need a better blade to cut my thick Tall Fescue. Yarbo leaves a very uneven, ragged finish that I am embarrassed to show to visitors. I cut at 3.3 to 3.5" to maintain the heat resistance of my variety, but at this height the blades are withdrawn too high inside the deck to reach all the grass. Also, the plastic disk prevents grass from lifting up into the cutting plane. It leaves tall blades of uncut grass everywhere.
- The whole deck should raise and lower, not just the blade spindles.
- Offer a standard lawnmower blade with air vanes to lift the grass up for an even cut, like Lymow, Start with a retrofit blade that we can mount on existing decks, if possible.
- Either get rid of the castor wheels or move them away from the blades because they press the grass down and hinder smooth cutting.
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I have tall fescue as well. It helps if you use one of the pattern cuts like checkerboard so that it varies the direction of the cut by 90 degrees. Cutting frequently and when the grass is dry is also important. I am currently cutting at 3 inches but will move back to 4 inches when it starts getting warmer. The missed section in your picture looks like maybe more of a pathing problem. I had something similar recently as a result of collision avoidance. I sent it back out the next day and it got it.
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Photographing grass is difficult. The right side is unmowed, the left is just-mowed. I can barely tell the difference except for where the tracks press it down. It leaves tall strands everywhere. I had just sharpened the blades. Runners were removed.
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Are you rotating each cut by at least 45 degrees and mowing 2-3 times a week? If not, I think this would help.
No. I was waiting 3 weeks to get my replacement antenna. That area had recently been mowed with my Gravely, though. I have more map editing to do before I’ll be able to get 2 passes completed per week.
Not sure if you saw but Yarbo is testing a different blade design so that may help your situation going forward. Also, they posted this today on the FB group.
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Thanks–that should help.
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That’s something I would buy 
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No sign of the new blades yet. In the meantime, I started mowing on slow speed. Yarbo cuts better on slow, but still not as good as a gas mower. I also switched to “gentle contact” to eliminate all the ghost obstacles. They really don’t have a working obstacle avoidance system, yet, that’s compatible with grass.
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I just wanted to chime in because I’m also dealing with tough grass, and it’s overwhelming my Yarbo. I have just under 2 acres, and after a single pass, the blades are already dull and struggling. It’s leaving uneven patches everywhere, and clogging has become a real issue. Swapping blades after every mow isn’t sustainable cost-wise. If Yarbo is going to be marketed to rural users, we really need a blade upgrade option that can handle thick, fast-growing grass like this. Georgia grass doesn’t play around, especially during spring and summer.
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Consider removing the finger guards, to resolve that.
Not sure of you situation and what you’ve tried or haven’t. Here are some general questions and guidelines. Are you using the gold titanium coated blades? Are you mowing wet grass? It’s best to only mow dry grass. As @Steve mentioned, also remove the blade safety guards. They aren’t needed except for regulatory requirements for Yarbo to see them. I’ve seen many report almost no clogging, better cuts, and less wear on the blades. The gold blades are tougher for thicker and tougher lawns. The ones that come with the mower (silver) are more all purpose and not as tough, but more moisture resistant. Honestly, if you are cutting frequently, that shouldn’t matter at all. That’s the final point. You need to be cutting 2-3 times a week if not more. It is not meant to remove lots of material, it’s designed to micro mulch.
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