I read on a facebook group that removing the blade guards, while not recommended, is ok to do if you are experiencing the issue where the blades get stuck on the guard and break your discs. I have had this happen twice and inspected the mower to try and remove the guards. I’m a dummy and can’t figure out how to remove them. My question: does anyone have instructions, or better yet, a video of how to do this? Thanks!
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You have to remove the discs first and then you will see a bunch of screws around the metal bracket that hold on guards. Remove all the screws and then the guard and bracket should come off.
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I removed just the side pieces for now to see how it does. Will mow a bit and check. if stuff’s getting jammed in there, then that bracket’s going away as well. Thanks @bryan.wheeler - I wasn’t sure if that big bracket was also removed as part of “removing the guards.”
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So it looked to me like those side parts are skids to keep the blads from running into the ground. Is that not the case? Since they move up and down with the cut height adjustment…
@jsnbrgg - My thinking: If those guards along the side were to prevent the blades from touching the ground, they’d need to be across the whole disc. If the blades on the outside of the mower head touch the ground, so will the blades on the inside, as the mowing disc is generally level. I think those guards are there to protect fingers in case someone tries to lift the mower head, so, yep a good to have.
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They are finger guards. Some potential to help with blocking other things from hitting the discs on the side, but not by much. Yarbo has said it is ok to remove them if they are causing issues with clogging.
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I’m also looking for info on removing the guards. It seems you have to remove the disks first, but the screws holding my disks do not budge. They bend the allen wrench. I tried a drill with a bit and even pliars couldn’t hold the disks enough from spinning. Terrified these things are going to break on day 1
I believe they all have thread lock on them so they are very difficult to initially loosen. The allen wrench did bend pretty far the first time around. I bypassed using a drill bit initially because of the force applied and the disc slipping in my hand. Maybe I missed it somewhere but I wish they had a lock to lock the discs in place when doing this type of work. It’s the same when you replace the blades. Would be great if the discs locked in place and wouldn’t spin.
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Yarbo engineers have confirmed we if takig off finger guards you must put back on the guard brackets as they help the integrity of the mower deck. 
First I’ve heard of this. Seen many Yarbo responses that it’s ok to remove and was a regulatory requirement only. @Yarbo-Forum can you confirm?
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Watching… 
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I doubt it. They aren’t structural.
If anything, just replace the screws that were holding them in place, to stop the holes from filling with debris.
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Completely agree. Hence why I pinged Yarbo.
We apologize for the earlier misinformation in the support ticket. After confirming with our team, the blade guard is indeed a safety regulation component, and it is okay to remove if you choose to do so. It is designed to prevent humans or animals from accidentally reaching into the cutting deck and getting injured.
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It sounds like you are referring to only the blade guard, but what about the bracket? Can that bracket also be left off? I think that was Bryan’s question (it’s certainly mine).
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Thank you for adding that! After confirming with our team, the blade guard bracket should actually be reattached after you remove the blade guard. We appreciate your question and hope this clears things up!
The bracket accumulates grass on top. Is there a reason this is required to be reattached? If you put all the screws that hold the bracket on back in, is this sufficient?
That’s what I did, removed guard and bracket and put in all screws to fill the holes. Yarbo is working nominal.
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